By Jim Ferri
I’ve been across Florida’s Route 75 — the famous “Alligator Alley” — many times and I’ve never seen an alligator.
In fact, I’ve never seen any animal. It’s a pretty boring drive.
But there is another road off Tamiami Trail, the old road to the south that originally connected Miami and Miami Beach with Florida’s west coast and runs parallel to Route 75, where you’ll often see alligators galore, right up close next to your car given the right conditions. You’ll see other wildlife, as well.
It’s called the Loop Road and is part of the Big Cypress National Preserve.
I know that not everyone likes alligators. I’m not a big fan myself. But when you get to see them from the safety of your car on this real Alligator Alley, your attitude changes a bit. I know, I’ve done it several times.
I first heard of Loop Road a few years ago on a program on National Public Radio, of all places. I tuned in and heard a writer for Sports Illustrated telling the show’s host about growing up in Miami and how he and his friends would go out on Loop Road when they were kids. He described the almost primeval nature of the place and I made a mental note to check it out next time I was in the area.
Off Alligator Alley and Onto Route 75
A few years later as I was crossing the Everglades on Route 75, I talked my wife and some friends into tracking down the Loop. Using the GPS in our car we found the easterly end of it and off into the wilderness we went.
It was fairly innocuous for the first few miles. The road was paved and was lined with a few square concrete houses built by local Indians. Behind the houses were fields of scrub vegetation and marsh, which increasingly grew more dense and taller as we moved deeper into the swap. Soon the pavement turned to dirt, which although rough, was still passable.
On subsequent trips we found that it’s wise to choose your month of travel on Loop Road, the “real Alligator Alley,”carefully. The summer-early fall “rainy season” is the worse time to try to traverse it since large areas along its entire length are washed out by floods. If you go then, you’re forced to creep along in your car at 3-4 miles per hour, slowly and arduously weaving about large craters in the road.
The Route from Miami Beach to Loop Road in the Big Cypress National Preserve
This map is interactive; press +/- to enlarge it or make it smaller. It can also be viewed, and the route followed, on your smartphone.
Other popular tours they offer:
See the Real Alligator Alley on Loop Road
During the winter dry season after the road has been filled and leveled by the Park Service the drive is much easier both on your car and your bottom. The winter dry season is also a better time to travel the Loop since it’s when you see the most wildlife.
During the hot summer months alligators spend most of their time in the water keeping themselves cool. But in the winter months, when the waters in the park cool down a few degrees, many of them come out to sun along the banks of the stream and marsh alongside the road. In fact, on this Alligator Alley they’re so close you can stop your car only a few yards away from them.
It’s not a good idea on this Alligator Alley, as we once convinced a friend from Texas (halfway out of the car before we grabbed her) to get out for a closer look or, as she said, “to pull its tail.” Nor is it a good idea to take a walk along the road with your dog, which in South Florida are alligator’s favorite treats. Keep in mind that gators are extremely fast from a dead stop and can grab your dog, or you, within seconds.
Moving on down the road we slowly moved further into the primeval wilderness of Big Cypress National Preserve, passing spots sign-posted as Sweetwater Junction, Gaging Station and Trail City. It was totally quiet except for the sound of an occasional bird off in the trees somewhere. In the crystal-clear waters little fish darted about in the shadows of ferns that cascaded over the bank.
We saw very few cars or people on this real Alligator Alley, even at midday, since few know about it. At various places we’d pull over when we saw alligators lying along the side of the road on creek banks, sometimes piled atop one another in the morning sun. Up ahead, every now and then, groups of vultures stood in the middle of the road as if to blockade us from venturing further on. Egrets perched on tree limbs, their white feathers bright against the dark green shadows of the deep swamp.
At times we would stand outside the car and only hear birds singing in the towering cypress about us, or the rustle of the water made by fish or a swimming gator. At one point a huge Great Owl fluttered out of a stand of old trees onto the road in front of us, then quickly flew away as our car edged forward.
At one spot, where my wife and I stood looking across the water into the forest of Cypress trees rising from the water, we could not hear a sound. It was total silence, with not even the whisper of a breeze blowing. We stood there and stared at the beautiful scene almost feeling that we were the very first humans who had ever discovered this primeval place.
It was our own National Geographic moment. Right there on the Real Alligator Alley.
If you go:
This isn’t a trip for everyone since it can be rough at times, exceptionally rough if the Park Service hasn’t yet leveled the road. Still though, it is a unique experience.
You’ll find Loop Road halfway across State Road 41, the southernmost road that crosses the state from Miami to Naples, FL. Follow the map above and happy hunting!
Thanks, Jim! I am happy to read a great story from an expert on where to find the alligators and other creatures. I love stories like this and it brings back good memories of going there years ago with my parents and when my son Jason was small.
When he said he’s been across alligator alley and never saw an alligator,what the hell was he smoking. We’ve been across it in semis,and you can see a ton of Gators, he must of went through at night. Yeah it’s boring cos there’s nothing out there but swamp,AND GATORS. no way can you drive that stretch of highway and not see some gators.
Sorry, Roger, I’ve seen them in plenty of other places but never on alligator alley. And I’ve been driving across it for years. Perhaps since you’re in a semi you have a better vantage point.
Roger seen them because he drove his semi truck.. semis are 13feet higher in perspective view
I agree with Roger. We were just there in January. Driving in a small car, and we saw tons of alligators on Alligator Alley.
Hi Sharon,
In the winter alligators come out of the cool winter waters to sun themselves on the banks, so I know you’ll see them on Alligator Alley during the winter. I’ve also seen many of them on the way to Cape Canaveral. But in either of those road they’re relatively far away. On Loop Road in the wilderness you’re much closer to them. In the cooler months just be careful where you walk when you get out of your car.
Whichever road you take it’s a good experience. It just depends on which experience you’re looking for. What’s important is to go in the winter if you want to see gators.
I hear there’s an explosion of the non-native Python population. Anybody see any? Or is this just urban legend?
Hi Jeffrey,
I can tell you the pythons are very real. It’s such a major problem that the state hires bounty hunters to kill as many as possible but they barely make a dent in their population. Every one in a while in the news you’ll see a photo/video of 5-6 people holding one that’s 20+ feet long. They’re killing much of the other wildlife in the Everglades.
I’m glad you enjoyed it Carla, and that it brought back good memories.
Jim – this sounds really cool! Can we do this the next time we come visit?? We have alligators all around us here, but when I was little my family used to drive around down there and it would be a hoot to see it again as you describe it! Pat
Oh my God – you’re coming back????!!!!
Of course, we’ll be glad to take you out there.
hey …jimbo i wanna come see some gators?? aww man need a guide
What a neat place to visit! Although I’m not sure I would have the guts to go, I think many people would find Alligator Alley in Florida to be a fun place!
Thanks for the comment Stan. But I meant it’s not Alligator Alley but something much better!
While in the area, a must see is Clyde Butcher’s gallery at Hwy 41 Tamiami Trail Mile Marker 54.5
He’s the “Ansel Adams” of Florida.
it looks grate to go to i bet you had fun their
can you find snakes their ? we are coming from nj to look for snakes, we need some help knowing where to look
This area is part of the Big Cypress National Preserve. I’ve never seen snakes there although there are many throughout the preserve. I’m certain the park rangers can tell you where to go. Contact them through their site: http://www.nps.gov/bicy/
I have travelled through the original “Alligator Alley” and really enjoyed it. There were alligators everywhere and it was”look,but don’t touch”! The sight and sounds of birds were great also! The most dangerous animal of the environment is MAN.
Glad you enjoyed it Wayne. It’s great, isn’t it?
The first time I crossed Alligator Alley was over 60 years ago. It was NOT a highway. And there were alligators everywhere!
Jim,
We travel to southwest fl every year over the new years. We spend 1 day travelling 41 to view all the gators and other wildlife. This year I saw a croc in the canal at mile marker 42; a few miles west of the souvenir store called Swamp Apes. I was stunned. I have lots of pics too.
You ever see crocs that far north? Also, Panthers?
Southern fl is the best.
Hi Jeremiah,
Are you referring to Rt 41 near Tampa? I’ve never seen alligators in that area (although I’ve never gone looking for them there). I have seen a lot up near the Kennedy Space Center. You really need to go to Loop road during the winter months when the water gets cool and they come out to sun themselves and warm up (the same as down on Loop Rd). I’ve never seen any panthers that, as you likely know, are an endangered species. There are only a few left, and, unfortunately, every year some get hit by cars.
Jim,
We spend 1 day travelling Naples to Miami. We saw the croc in the canal just west of hwy 29 or just west of big cypress. Also, the souvenir shop I was referring to is Skunk Apes; not Swamp Apes. It’s also a campground.
I speak with the owner there every year when we stop there and he showed me pics he took of a few panthers that passed thru his campground recently.
I showed him the pics of the croc we saw a few miles west of his store and he closed his store down to witness it for himself. He came back with a few pics of his own and said “I’ve lived here my whole life and thought ive seen everything. I never thought I’d see a croc. Must be from the recent flooding.”
Anyhow, I’d love to travel Loop Road. Where does it intersect 41? We will be back again the day after Christmas for 3 weeks. I will make that trip.
Is loop road the actual highway 41 or is it a rod off of 41?
Hi Mary, It’s a road off Hwy 41. It loops around and parallels 41. Go to Google Maps and google “15 Loop Road Big Cypress National Preserve, Ochopee, FL 34141” and it will show you where it begins on its eastern end. (My apologies to whomever — if anyone — lives at #15. It just happened to be where I clicked on the map). If you have problems finding it let me know.
Totes Funny
I always see alligators when driving I-75, but I’m the family wildlife spotter in general. Last time we drove across, I saw a rosette spoonbill, which was cool because they’re usually hard to spot outside the Eco Pond area of Everglades Natl Park.
Loop Road is great and I can hardly wait to get back out there and hike some of the trails off it.
Gotta add, though, that I’m it’s safe to stand within a few feet of alligators as long as you’re not threatening them. Just don’t stoop or sit because that’s when you start to look more like possible prey. In winter, especially, they line the tram trail at Shark Valley (ENP) and it’s safe for hikers and bikers to stop and take pictures.
And while gators are cool, my absolute favorite thing out in the everglades is the Wood Stork.
Drew,
This is great info! Tahnks!
Want to see Roseate spoonbills? Come on over the the Tampa Bay area. I see them in St. Pete all of the time.
Hey Jim!
I will be in South Florida next week
Is this a good time of year to take a trek down loop road to see some alligators!?
Thanks from a northern neighbor
Hi Adam,
I’m not an alligator expert but I know that when the weather is cool the water cools down and the gators come out to warm themselves. When the weather get hot they go into the water to cool themselves. This is the iffy month since the weather has already turned hot in South Florida but the water may not have warmed yet.
My answer: I don’t know. But you’ll certainly see some (even if only inn the water) at the little bridge crossings — just look carefully. And be careful and don’t get anywhere near them. They are extremely fast and 20 feet from a dead stop in seconds.
Have fun!
Hi Jim, really enjoyed your article. Is Loop Road near Monroe Station? We were there many years ago when the restaurant was open, such a cool place. We went into a bush camp not far from there.
There were a few gators that day in a quarry. We enjoyed that experience immensely.. Our friend and guide took us into a bush camp well hidden under the moss covered trees. I was kind of worried about snakes but we didnt see any. A trip to Florida is the best when you have someone who knows the area that can show you its hidden
treasures..
Hi Debby,
I’m glad you enjoyed it. Monroe Station is at the intersection of Loop Road and I-75. I just looked it up and, unfortunately, found that Monroe Station burned down last year. What a loss!
Jim
Dear Jim, I’ll be in the area on September 25, 2017. Do you think we can get across the loop road then? I’ve driven Hwy 75 about 40 years ago, or what was called Alligator Alley back then and saw all kinds of wildlife. I’m afraid modern day traffic will hamper that. Any suggestions are welcomed!
Hi Kathie,
You can get across Loop Road anytime of year, although its difficult in the rainy season (the summer months). You should be fine. You wll have to drive on 75 to get there though.
Jim
Can you give little bit more detailed information about Cyprus National Preserve? Cheers
Hi Eric,
You can get good info on the Big Cyprus National Preserve at these two places: South Florida Parks and National Parks Service. Hope this helps.
there meat is great to eat, YUMMY
Hi John,
I’ve tried it but never quite developed a taste for it. Maybe I got a bad piece.
Jim
Thank you for posting this information about loop rd we just moved to south Florida earlier this year and had family in town for the holidays and wanted to see some gators and thanks to your post we were able to do just that today!!! We saw 26 different gators on the loop ride and saw another 24 near mile marker 67 on highway 41 going west from the loop road. Thank you again. If anyone reads this post it’s definitely worth your time
Hi Jim,
This is the best time of year to see many gators since they come out of the cool “winter” waters to sun themselves. Glad I was of help.
We went down alligator alley years ago and did see many alligators laying about the water beside the road. We also saw different birds all sitting in the moss covered branches or on the ground or on the waterline. Egrets, spoonbills, heron and vultures. It was very incredible. I love photography and got some great photos. We usually went in February or March. Would not recommend coming or going at night. It began to rain on the way back and was dark and that part of the trip was not fun. Also saw a sign warning of black panthers if you were to break down to stay in your vehicle. During the day, with caution and respect for the wildlife and luck on your side you may be able to see all we saw. It was great.
You will ALWAYS see gators on the alley. If you’re lucky at dusk or dawn you can see a Florida panther too.
Thanks , this is great , we will be visiting from Australia next year and would love to do this drive.
Just don’t get too close to the gators Robyn!
Shark Valley, the northern entrance to Everglades national park, is on the Tamiami Trail. The visitor centre offers exhibits and programmes and a 15-mile loop road leads to a t observation tower. The tower offers the park’s best panorama of the Everglades, as well as excellent opportunities to watch alligators, turtles, wading birds and possibly snail kites. The loop itself is a leisurely two-hour bike ride, best in early morning when deer are grazing in the marsh and otters are playing in the water.
Thanks for this info. I’ve passed Shark Valley several times but never took the road. This is something I’d like to see.