Last Updated on November 5, 2025
By Jim Ferri and Marjorie Kean
Among the best pieces of advice I’ve received in my travels is “only eat a light breakfast in Bologna.” That’s not as odd as it might sound.
The advice refers to Bologna being renowned for having the best food in Italy. Eat too much breakfast, and you’ll feel heavy with less room for lunch and dinner. It’s sage advice, since this is a city where you discover incredible food at every turn. It’s the reason Italians refer to Bologna as La Grassa (“the Fat One”).
We’ve been lured back to this foodie heaven a few times, not only by its wonderful cuisine (although that was high on our list) but also by the magnificence of the city itself. In fact, if Jim was within a hundred miles, he’d come up with an excuse to wander on over…
Piazza Maggiore
On our most recent trip to Bologna, Italy we arrived via high-speed train from Milano, a quite comfortable hour-long trip. From Bologna Centrale, we headed straight to the comfortable Hotel Porta San Mamolo, only a 15-minute walk from beautiful Piazza Maggiore.
We’ve returned to Piazza Maggiore whenever we’ve visited, as it’s the very heart of the city. On this visit, we arrived during college graduation and found many formally dressed graduates celebrating with their families in the piazza. It was heart-warming to see their family celebrations. In Italy, there is no one graduation day, so during our visit, we saw a continuum of family celebrations.
We continued to encounter more graduates as we strolled along the Piazza’s famous porticos. Home to numerous shops and ristorantes throughout the city, these beautiful porticos are UNESCO World Heritage sites. Walk through them during lunch or the evening and you’ll find crowds in their many ristorantes and cafés.
Those that ring the Piazza Maggiore are among the most famous. While not all the porticos are ornate, we saw some on Via De Poeti and Via Luigi Farina with beautiful painted ceilings.
In addition to just absorbing the ambiance of Piazza Maggiore, there are three places around the piazza you may want to visit. The first, on the piazza’s north side, is the local tourist office, Bolonga Welcome. It has plenty of local information and a helpful staff. Although on past trips to Italy we’ve visited Bologna, this time we also hired a tour guide to give us a new perspective on the city.
Neptune’s Fountain
Our second Maggiore suggestion is Neptune’s Fountain, on the left as you face the tourist office from the piazza. Commissioned in 1563 by Pope Pius IV, there’s nothing really exciting here, but it’s a beautiful work of art. It’s also a good meeting place, and it’s here where we caught up with Jim’s friend Giorgia Zabbini.
Giorgia took us to Caffe Pathe, a bar just off Plaza Maggiore on Piazza Re Enzo. There we learned that while Bologna may be a monument to ancient history, underground there is a whole different and modern vibe. Pathe is reached via a long stairway into a subway-like series of art galleries, a movie theater and bar/cafes. The young patrons were gathered in groups and appeared to be young business people and students, alike. Entering this environment was like going from the middle-ages into the modern world. It’s also not on the typical tourist routes.
Giorgia promotes tourism in Bologna, Italy and is fluent in seven languages. By comparison, I speak two, while Jim muddles along only in English with his New York accent, which, in retrospect, may qualify as a second language as well.
In addition — and this is an unabashed recommendation — Giorgia is the author of the very good guidebook “Bologna.” Available in both Italian and English, it provides a wealth of information on the city and its environs. It’s a good investment for any traveler headed to Bologna. You can order it here.
Basilica di San Petronio
When you leave Neptune, cross the piazza to our third recommendation, the immense 14th-century Basilica di San Petronio. Compared to other great basilicas, such as Milan’s Duomo, the Basilica’s austere façade does look rather plain.
In fact, the first time we saw it, we didn’t even realize it was a church.
But San Petronio’s real beauty is its interior. With 22 chapels, it’s one of the largest basilicas in the world and has the world’s largest sundial. The dial marks only the day of the year through a circular hole in the left vault of the Basilica, about 89 feet (27 meters) above your head.
It’s a beautiful place you shouldn’t miss in Bologna.
Bologna’s Quadrilatero
During this trip in Italy, Jim was looking forward to re-visiting Bologna’s old Quadrilatero, the famous bustling market area of shops and restaurants adjacent to the Piazza. Dating back to the Middle Ages, it’s a warren of streets, with the occasional little alley squeezed in between buildings. Nevertheless, it’s quite easy to navigate.
Some of the better-known shops here – especially the pasta and food shops – are both family-owned and run. Many have been handed down for generations and have maintained their historical architecture and furnishings.
While wandering about the colorful street markets on Via Drapperie, we discovered the popular bakery ATTI. Passed down through five generations, the historical shop specializes in Bolognese specialties. Just a few minutes later, we were in a Pescheria watching fishmongers bargain with their patrons. The greengrocer across the street added a bright splash of color to the scene.
To enjoy a more in-depth view of these markets, read our Things To Do in Bologna (for Foodies).
Designer Shops in Bologna, Italy
After visiting numerous shops, the fish market, and wandering the streets, it was Marjorie’s turn to visit some of Bologna’s designer clothing stores. Wandering around, we came upon the glass-roofed Galleria Cavour on Via Farini, home to many of the top designers, including Prada, Armani, and Louis Vuitton. She browsed for a while but didn’t find what she was looking for.
Later, while wandering aimlessly and admiring the area, we came upon the Furla store, the famous Italian designer from Bologna that offers excellent quality at a reasonable price. Marjorie swooped in the door, emerging a half-hour later with a new handbag and belt.
Our Wonderful, Charming, 4-Star Boutique Hotel
The charming, four-star boutique Hotel Porta San Mamolo is centrally located on a quiet side street in an area brimming with charming small stores and coffee shops.
Porta San Mamolo also has a central garden with beautiful vegetation and seating areas. We enjoyed breakfast in the connected dining area, where the food was excellent, and the service was friendly. Walking to the restaurant one morning for coffee, we passed a woman enjoying her croissant and cappuccino with a small dog in her lap, completing the perfect picture.
Since the hotel only provides breakfast, if you’re heading out to a local restaurant in the evening, it’s also a good place to enjoy pre-dinner drinks.
Local Restaurants Near the Hotel
You’ll find many neighborhood restaurants scattered all about Bologna. The two in which we dined near the Porta San Mamolo were outstanding in both food and service. One was the Osteria della Lanterna, where we enjoyed two delicious three-course dinners, one Bolognese Cotoletta, the other lamb, along with a good bottle of Sangiovese, for €114 for the two of us.
Travel to Bologna and you’ll find many small ristorantes like Osteria della Lanterna scattered about the city. Delicioso!
Leave a Reply