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Never Stop Traveling

Melk Abbey – Austria’s Baroque Danube Jewel

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Last Updated on February 26, 2021 by Jim Ferri

a tour group in Melk Abbey, Austria
A tour of Melk Abbey, Austria

I first saw the Melk Abbey in Austria as I was cruising down the Danube. It was a magnificent sight…

Estimated reading time: 7 minutes

By Jim Ferri

We had been moving slowly through Austria’s beautiful Wachau Valley in the early morning and I was watching the morning fog rising slowly off the vineyards that flowed down the hillsides. And then around one bend, there it was, a huge Baroque Benedictine Abbey set high on a hill overlooking the Danube, one of the more imposing sights in Europe.

Travel Restrictions during the pandemic in Austria

Many guides and online sites perpetuate a rumor that renovations were financed by the sale of the Abbey’s Gutenberg Bible to Yale, which is untrue. The restoration of the beautiful building you see today was financed by the Austrian government and local governments; Yale was given its bible in 1926 by a private individual.

people in a museum in Melk Abey
The Abbey museum

Melk Abbey, Austria – 497 Rooms and 1365 Windows

Melk Abbey was originally built in the 11th century but was later destroyed by fire and rebuilt in the early 18th century in Baroque style. It’s a building so huge – it has 497 rooms and 1365 windows – that it obviously was difficult to maintain which necessitated a large-scale 26-year restoration beginning in 1975.

It’s incredible that the Abbey has survived at all through the Reformation of the 16th century and the occupation by Napoleon in the 19th and the Nazis in the 20th centuries. In the past farming and agriculture sustained the monks. Today the 30 monks who still live in and maintain the Abbey, which also houses a school of 900+ students, survive thanks to the admission paid by the ½ million tourists who wander through it every year.

the roof of the abbey
View of the town of Melk from the Abbey

Melk Abbey, (Almost) Everything Baroque

You enter through an inner courtyard where you see that everything is Baroque except for four frescoes at the top along the roofline. When the building was renovated it was impossible to save the frescoes so it was decided to paint more modern ones.

Walk across the courtyard and you’re following in the footsteps of many notables who used to stay here including Mozart and Maria Theresa, Archduchess of Austria. Once inside you’re ushered up to the second floor to the Imperial Rooms where a modern exhibition, bathing the rooms completely in green and blue lights, highlights the history of Melk Abbey.

people looking at artwork
Art treasures in the Abbey’s museum

An Incredible Abbey Library

We wandered on through the exhibition and followed our guide into the ornate Marble Hall where noble guests dined. (Musicians, we were told, sat and played in an outer room so they would not be seen.) The flat ceiling is faux, painted in such a way in the 18th century to give it a three-dimensional look.

One of the most incredible areas of Melk Abbey is its library where, unfortunately, they don’t allow you to take photos. The 12 rooms of the library are covered with inlaid wood, some of it gilded, and filled with more than 100,000 volumes of old books and 1186 manuscripts. The oldest book is from 988.

Marble Hall and its faux ceiling
Melk’s Marble Hall and its faux ceiling

The books in Melk Abbey are on many different topics including history, law, medicine, etc. and are in several different languages including English, Hebrew and Latin. While most, if not all, of the books are from the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries, the bindings are all from the 18th century, rebound to look the same because the monks wanted everything to be symmetrical. See below for photos of the library.

a spiral staircase
The spiral staircase off the library of Melk Abbey

Secret Doors in the Bookcases

Any type of fire was forbidden in the library but there are six hidden doors in the bookcases, constructed so the monks could sneak in and out of the Abbey and study at night by candlelight. Even when pointed out by your guide you need to look closely to see them.

Exiting the library we were told to take the spiral staircase from the library down to the Abbey’s church. Everyone was shocked when we stepped on the staircase since it appeared to be hundreds of feet deep. Like the faux ceilings, though, it turned out only to be an illusion – the monks had put mirrors at the top and bottom of the staircase to trick visitors.

DSC09823--xxx
The Abbey’s Baroque church

After a few minutes we were inside and marveling at the Abbey’s beautiful Baroque church with its 200-foot-tall dome, a fitting finale to our visit.

We finished our visit at a Keller adjacent to the Abbey where we were led through a wine tasting by our humorous host, before setting off to wander about the sleepy little town of Melk.


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N.B.

Although you’re no longer allowed to take photos in the Abbey library, reader Paul Abramchik sent me the photos below that he had taken of the library during a visit to the Abbey in 2008. How fortuitous for all of us! His photos certainly give you a better idea of the beauty of the place more than my words ever could. Thank you Paul.

Melk Abbey Library-Paul Abramchik -PA171397_ShiftN
photo: Paul Abramchik
PA171400-Paul Abramchik
photo: Paul Abramchik
PA171401-Paul Abramchik
photo: Paul Abramchik
PA171402_6_ShiftN-Paul Abramchik
photo: Paul Abramchik

If you go:

Stift Melk
Abt-Berthold-Dietmayr-Str. 1
A 3390 Melk
Tel. 0043(0)2752-555-0
https://www.stiftmelk.at/en/
Admission: € 11,50 (with tour), € 9,5 (without tour)
Note: Melk can be visited via ship on a Danube cruise as well as by car, train and bus from Vienna.

Austrian Tourist Office
120 W 45th Street
New York, NY 10036
Tel: (212) 944-6880
www.austria.info/

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Comments

  1. Donna Manz says

    May 8, 2013 at 8:34 pm

    When my daughter-in-law and I visited the Abbey (Danube river cruise), we were both in-awe … She told everyone back in the U.S. about its imposing, magical architecture. Thanks for describing Melk Abbey to your readers …. and I’ve got to admit … you MUST see it from the Danube!

    Reply
  2. Jim Ferri says

    May 8, 2013 at 11:03 pm

    Yes, it is really interesting, isn’t it? It is a really interesting place to visit.

    Reply
  3. Angela Florio says

    May 9, 2013 at 4:32 pm

    On a church sponsored trip to Germany in 2010 to see the Passion Play at Oberammegau, our tour took us to Austria and to Melk Abbey. It was a wonderful addition to our itinerary and we truly marvelled at what we saw. It was while there that we saw a river boat cruising down the Danube. In July we get to see the Abbey from the Danube along with four other couples on that original trip. Looking forward to taking pictures from the opposite perspective.

    Reply
    • Jim Ferri says

      May 9, 2013 at 4:34 pm

      Angela –– you’re going to love cruising on the Danube. Get up early in the morning if that’s when you’ll be cruising through the Wachau Valley. It’s the most beautiful stretch of the Danube.

      Reply
    • Donna Manz says

      May 14, 2013 at 10:52 am

      I agree with JIm … there is no more awe-inspiring way to approach the Abbey than from the river …. I’m biased, I know, but I love Europe’s great waterways in December, when the forests are blanketed with snow 🙂

      Reply
  4. Mike Orobona says

    April 23, 2015 at 10:43 pm

    All the optical illusions and hidden doors are very interesting. Thanks for a little history lesson.

    Reply
  5. Fred says

    June 14, 2015 at 5:10 pm

    Visited the melk Abbey this afternoon. Sweltering heat inside and out followed by heavy rain but nevertheless was a sight to see.

    Reply
  6. Asta says

    May 28, 2019 at 8:07 pm

    Re Gutenberg Bible – Yale was bestowed the Bible by the Harkness family who purchased it from Melk in 1926 via the Philadelphia bookseller A.S.W. Rosenbach at Anderson Galleries auction in New York City (hence it is called The Melk Copy).

    Reply
    • Jim Ferri says

      May 29, 2019 at 6:41 am

      Thank you for explaining the origin of The Melk Copy, Asta. That’s very interesting.

      Reply

Trackbacks

  1. đồng phục lớp says:
    September 26, 2020 at 10:16 pm

    đồng phục lớp

    Melk Abbey, a Popular Austrian Stop on River Cruises NeverStopTraveling

    Reply

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