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By Jim Ferri and Bob Clampett
A ribbon of islands that separate the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Atlantic, the Florida Keys are a fantastic road trip. They are unrivaled for pure scenic beauty as well as numerous things to see and do along their length.
The Keys are very laid back, with a heavy dose of laissez faire in the air. And they can be intoxicating. Not only for their numerous restaurants and resorts, but also for the spectacular marine landscape that always surrounds you.
Although there are about 800 keys of all sizes, only about 30 are inhabited. And of those, approximately ten are of interest to most travelers. Connecting these popular keys is the Overseas Highway, one of the longest and most beautiful over-water roads in the world.
Florida Keys Road Trip From Miami
Undoubtedly, you’ll hear the tourism folks touting the Florida Keys as being only 15 miles from Miami. While that may be correct, it is misleading since the distance from cities is usually measured from the city line. Miami is a very large, sprawling city with a city line that is far from places of interest to travelers.
More realistic for visitors is the distance from the hotels in South Beach to Key Largo, the northernmost key. That distance is 65-70 miles. But even if it’s a hundred miles, don’t be deterred from taking a road trip in the Florida Keys since it’s the drive of a lifetime. Continue reading to see why.
About Those Mile Markers
Mile Markers (MM) in the Florida Keys are a relative location of a place in reference to the number of miles north of Key West. Key West is MM 0. The business center of Key Largo is about MM 100; therefore, it is about 100 miles northeast of Key West. Here’s a sampling:
- Key West 0
- Islamorada 90–63
- Pigeon Key 47
- Little Torch 28.5
- Key Largo 100
- The final (northernly) MM is 127.5 in Florida City at the junction of the Florida Turnpike and US 1.
Taking a Keys Road Trip
Although you can make the drive from Miami to Key West and return to Miami on the same day, I don’t recommend it.
Some years ago, a good friend of mine was visiting from Canada, and I did exactly that. Short on time but wanting the Keys experience, we drove from Miami to Key West, went to Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville for lunch, and then returned to Miami in time for dinner. Obviously, our entire Key West experience (with the sole exception of a great burger) was from the inside of our car. It’s not something I recommend you do.
If you really want to do your Florida Keys Road Trip in style, drive down in a convertible. There are plenty of car rental places in both Miami and Fort Lauderdale. Convertible or not, allow yourself one or two days to drive down through Keys since there’s plenty to see and do. Then, stay another two days or more in Key West before heading back north. You’ll find plenty to enjoy.
Captain Bob
The drive to Key West is not only about the natural beauty that envelopes you but also about the fascinating places and things you discover along the way. And I’ll tell you from experience that there are many, which I learned from Captain Bob.
Bob Clampett, a boat Captain, friend, and Keys resident offered to show me about the Keys a few weeks ago. Wisely, I quickly agreed and soon found Captain Bob to be a font of information on all things during our road trip from Miami to Key West.
Our First Stop, A Nike Missile Base
After an early morning departure, our first stop was in the Everglades National Park, a unique wilderness. Most people don’t include the Everglades in a Keys road trip, but they are actually part of the Florida Keys.
You get to the National Park by taking the Florida Turnpike or U.S.1 to the junction of the two roads. Turn right at the first traffic light and then drive approximately 3 miles through downtown Florida City. You’ll soon come to the large, popular produce market “Robert Is Here.” (Stop for a bite or for one of its popular smoothies.)
Turn left at Robert Is Here and drive through the broad fields following signs to the park, about 5 miles. Unfortunately, the signs are few and rather small so watch carefully for them.
It’s a spectacular National Park unlike any other in the US. But making it even more spectacular now is Nike, and I’m not referring to the clothing manufacturer.
In the Cold War during the Kennedy administration, Russia established a military presence in Cuba. In fact, it was perceived as such a provocative act by the US it came close to starting a World War.
To defend itself from a possible Russian air attack, the US built numerous Nike missile bases around the US. Although many were known to the public, one secret base, designed to protect the country from an attack launched from Cuba, was hidden in the Everglades.
The historic base has never been seen by the public, until now. In a few weeks it will open to the public, showing exactly how the based looked when built by the US Army. Bob and I, however, were lucky enough to get a private guided tour of the facility with Park Ranger and Superintendent, Daniel Blankenship.
Daniel regaled us with his knowledge of both the Everglades National Park and the Nike base, about the latter explaining everything from the high level of security on the hidden base to how its missiles were designed not to hit a single plane but to explode among a group of bombers.
See it if you’re On a Florida Keys Road Trip or just spending several days exploring this wonderful National Park.
Key Largo (about MM 100)
The Caribbean Club’s (MM104) claim to fame is that it’s the location of the 1948 classic movie Key Largo. The movie starred Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall. If you’re of the age that you don’t know who Humphrey Bogart is, you’ll find a statue of him by the door across from a life-size cut-out of Bogart and Bacall. The Club is the oldest bar in the Florida Keys, so you may want to belly up to the bar for a celebratory drink unless, of course, you’re the driver.
If you’re really an old-movie buff and Bogart fan, in Key Largo, you can also see the African Queen (MM100), the original steamboat from the 1951 classic movie of the same name starring Bogart and Katherine Hepburn. This famous steamboat is available for daily canal cruises in the Port Largo Canal area.
While in Key Largo, continue your Florida Keys road trip at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. The first underwater park in the USA, it’s the only living coral reef in the continental USA. It’s nirvana for divers and snorkelers with its schools of brightly colored tropical fish. There’s even the remains of an ancient Spanish shipwreck. If you’d rather not dive or snorkel, take a glass-bottom and boat tour instead.
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park (MM102.5)
http://www.johnpennekampstatepark.com
Entrance Fee: $8.00 per vehicle
African Queen (MM 100)
http://www.africanqueenflkeys.com/
Adults (13+) $64.99 / children (4-12) $29.99 / infants three and younger free
(Docked at the Marina Del Mar marina, part of the Holiday Inn Complex).
Islamorada (MM 90–63)
Islamorada, about halfway between Miami and Key West, is one of the most popular Keys. It’s here we stop at Robbies, a popular restaurant that’s famous as a place to feed the fish.
These aren’t little colorful tropical fish, however, but huge Tarpon, one of Florida’s premier game fish. They’ve been traced back to prehistoric times and can reach 8 feet and up to 280 pounds. The ones you see at Robbie’s, however, are about half that size. The largest caught by Bob over the years, he told me, was about 6 feet and 120 pounds.
A popular activity at Robbie’s is to buy a bucket of bait ($5) and feed the Tarpon that cut through the water below the dock. Bob explained that Tarpon have very small, densely packed teeth called villaform, that feel more like sandpaper than actual teeth. But they can bite and jump out of the water, the reason people hold their bait out over the water. Obviously, you must be careful not to get bitten.
When Bob was feeding the fish, he was bitten on the finger as he pulled his hand back. But incredibly, the bite wasn’t by a tarpon but by a pelican that snuck up behind him and grabbed the bait out of his hand.
In addition to Robbies, another good restaurant is the Island Fish Company (MM 54) that is owned by Bass Pro Shops. The food is great, the menu extensive and it’s dog friendly, just in case you’ve brought Fido along.
A popular nearby attraction is Theater of the Sea, a famous Florida Keys attraction since 1946. Here you’ll find dolphins, sea lions, sea turtles, fish, sharks, stingrays, alligators, and birds, many of which have been rescued, rehabilitated, and deemed non-releasable by state or federal government agencies. The popular attraction offers a range of personal shows and interactive programs.
Theater of the Sea (MM 84.5)
84721 Overseas Hwy
Islamorada, FL 33036
(305) 664-2431
https://theaterofthesea.com/
General admissions start at $47.95. Interactive programs: $65 – 1995.
Robbies (MM 77.5)
12648 Overseas Hwy
Islamorada, FL 33036
https://www.robbies.com
Island Fish Company (MM54)
81532 Overseas Hwy
Marathon, FL 33050
(305) 664-9271
https://islandfishco.com/
Bigger Than Life
On a Florida Keys road trip, you’ll discover some things bigger than life. These include Betsy, a giant, 12-legged replica of a Florida Keys spiny lobster, outside the Rain Barrel Artisan Village. (MM 86.7, not far from Robbies).
There’s also a giant shark at Mangrove Mike’s Café (MM 82.2) and a huge conch at the Theater of the Seas (MM 84.5) in Islamorada (MM 84.5)
Turtle Hospital In Marathon (MM 48.5)
Leaving Betsy behind, Bob and I headed for the nearby Turtle Hospital. It’s a fascinating place to experience, especially if you have children in tow. The hospital nurtures turtles that have been injured, usually by fishing lines or boats or the rubbish found in the water. About 70,000 visitors come to see the 100-200 turtles they rescue each year.
Unlike the tarpon feeding at Robbie’s, at the turtle hospital, you must join a tour to see the turtles. Tours leave hourly, and at the end, you have a chance to feed the giant turtles as well. It’s a fascinating place whether you’re on a family vacation or just on a quick weekend getaway to the Keys.
Turtle Hospital
2396 Overseas Highway
Marathon, Florida 33050
(305) 743-2552
[email protected]
https://www.turtlehospital.org/contact-us/
Open daily from 9am – 6pm (last tour at 4pm)
Admission: Adult: $35.00 / Children (4-12) $17.50 / Under 4: Free
Dolphin Research Center (MM59)
Near the Turtle Hospital is the Dolphin Research Center. The Center is a working research facility focused on studying aquatic mammals. Many discover it to be a great place to learn about and interact with dolphins and sea lions in an all-natural outdoor lagoon.
Although our schedule precluded us visiting the Center, it’s known to be a great place to learn about and interact with the dolphins in an all-natural outdoor lagoon. I had visited the Center many years ago when it was a facility where the US Navy was studying dolphins (see photo to the right).
Notably, the Center is wheelchair accessible and also pet friendly. An aqua-lift chair and fully trained staff can assist guests to get in and out of the water. Guests with special needs may also contact the Center at dolphins.org/special needs to discuss other assistance possibilities.
Dolphin Research Center
58901 Overseas Highway
Grassy Key, FL 33050-6019
(305) 289-0002
https://dolphins.org
Open daily: September 5th-December 15th, 9:00 am to 3:30 pm (last admissions at 2:30 pm / December 16th-September 4th, 9:00 am to 4:30 pm (last admissions at 3:30 pm) Closed Memorial Day, Labor Day, Thanksgiving Day, and Christmas Day
Admission: Adults: $35 / Children (4-12) $25 / ages 3 and under: free
Seven Mile Bridge (MM 47)
You might recognize Seven Mile Bridge from the chase scene in the Arnold Schwarzenegger / Jamie Lee Curtis hit movie True Lies. One of the most famous bridges in Florida, if not the entire US, it connects Marathon in the Middle Keys to Little Duck Key in the Lower Keys. Interestingly, despite its name, the bridge is only 6.79 miles long.
Even more interesting than the modern bridge is the old 7 Mile Bridge that still exists alongside it. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s a masterpiece of engineering, part of the famous railroad bridge built by Henry Flagler 100 years ago. Unfortunately, it was torn apart by the horrific hurricane of 1935.
Today, however, a large section of the original bridge has been reconstructed and made into a walkway/bikeway. Pull into the parking area at the northern end and take a walk, jog, or rollerblade along the old bridge (highly recommended). It’s a beautiful spot with good photo ops.
You might even want to take the tram to Pigeon Key, a 5-acre island that’s the old work camp for Flagler’s Florida East Coast Railway. Its eight buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Board the tram at the Pigeon Key Visitor’s Center.
Pigeon Key Visitor’s Center
1090 Overseas Highway (between the Hyatt Place and Marriott hotels)
(305) 743-5999
https://pigeonkey.net
Train departure times are 10 am, noon, and 2 pm daily from the gift shop. Check-In at Visitors Center ten minutes prior to the tour.
Island admission: Adults: $25; children (4-12): $20; 3 and under: free
Bahai Honda State Park (MM 36 and 37)
Despite its name, Bahai Honda isn’t a car dealership but a wonderful, beautiful Florida State Park. It’s also one of the few places in the Keys where you’ll find sand beaches since most of the islands are made of coral. Bahia Honda makes up for that in spades and, in fact, was once voted the “Best Beach in America.”
If you haven’t walked your sneakers off on the 7 Mile Bridge, Bahai Honda is a good place to get out and walk around and relax. Or perhaps, work on your tan or go snorkeling to see the incredible colorful fish all about you in the Looe Key Marine Sanctuary. The Sanctuary is an excellent scuba and snorkeling site for people of all skill levels.
Arrive early in the popular tourism seasons since Bahai Honda may close earlier than normal when it reaches maximum capacity in its day-use areas.
Bahai Honda State Park
36850 Overseas Highway
Big Pine Key FL 33043
(305) 872-2353
Admission: $8 per vehicle (two to eight people) + 50-cent county surcharge per person / $4.50 single-occupant vehicle or motorcycle (surcharge included) / $2.50 pedestrians and bicyclists
Big Pine Key (MM 29.5-33)
When you continue your drive from Bahia Honda to Key West, you’ll get a feel for the many islands linking the archipelago.
In addition to being home to Bahia Honda State Park, Big Pine Key is also home to the National Key Deer Refuge, the smallest deer in North America. They average only 2 to 3 feet tall and weigh 50–80 pounds. You’ll find that since they have little fear of humans, they’re easy to photograph. But be aware they are an endangered species, so you’re not allowed to feed them. Doing so could result in a fine.
No Name Pub
Also, on Big Pine, be sure to make a stop at the No Name Pub, one of the popular bars you’ll want to visit on your Florida Keys road trip. Step in the door, and you’ll find a funky pub that’s been rated “Best casual dining experience in the Florida Keys.”
In addition to the dining experience, No Name is also the oldest bar in the Keys. Still though, many people aren’t attracted to No Name by its age and menu, but by the thousands of autographed dollar bills hanging from the ceiling. It’s quite the visual experience.
Fat Albert
Another visual experience in this area of the Keys isn’t actually on the Keys at all. It’s “Fat Albert,” a huge surveillance blimp originally developed for the Air Force but now used by the US Department of Homeland Security. It’s tethered to the ground in a high-security installation on adjacent Cudjoe Key on the aptly named Blimp Road. A note to the curious: don’t even think about entering the installation.
Key West (MM 0)
When you leave Big Pine and Cudjoe Keys you’re about 20 miles from beautiful and funky Key West. It’s a pleasant half-hour drive through some of the most stunning natural vistas in the U.S. When you end your Florida Keys road trip in Key West, you’re in the most southernly part of the continental US. In fact, you’re closer to Havana then Orlando.
Key West is a tropical haven of gingerbread houses and beautiful art galleries, good restaurants and a gazillion bars, with chickens and roosters free roaming everywhere. Many describe it as romantic, others as irreverent. To some visitors it’s America’s hippy outpost, to other just quirky and kitschy.
You really need to go to Key West to decide for yourself. Luckily the city has an organized street grid which makes is easy to get around as you mull your decision. If you’d rather not walk as you mull, you can tour the city aboard a popular trolley.
For a city as small as it is, Key West has an incredible number of places to see. At the top of the list for many are the celebrations of sunset that take place in Mallory Square every evening. Go join the crowds and street performers and musicians that entertain the throngs before the setting sun takes Center stage. Top off the evening at a local bar or restaurant along its famous Duval street.
Always exceptionally popular is “The Buoy,” the Instagram favorite of thousands that marks your spot as being at the southernmost spot in the Continental US.
Whether you’re a literary buff or not, be sure to visit the famous Hemingway House, a Spanish colonial-style house on Whitehead Street. A block from the Key West Lighthouse, it’s here the famous author wrote The Snows of Kilimanjaro and To Have and Have Not. The house still contains all of the furniture Hemingway and his wife shipped to Key West from Paris.
The beautiful is home made even more interesting by its numerous 60 polydactyl (six-toed) cats. Hemingway named his cats for famous people so be sure to visit the cat cemetery on the property. There you’ll find the graves of Marilyn Monroe, John Wayne, Pablo Picasso, and many more.
Regarding cemeteries, also visit the Key West Cemetery. It’s a beautiful cemetery with many notable people buried there, and you’ll discover unique epitaphs and ornate gravestones. One of the most famous is BP “Pearl” Roberts, whose grave took us a while to find. A local hypochondriac, her epitaph simply states, “I told you I was sick.” More solemn are the graves of American sailors killed when the USS Maine blew up in Havana harbor in the Spanish-American War.
Another historical house is President Harry Truman’s Winter White House. Whether you’re a history buff or not, you’ll likely find it interesting. Even if you don’t take a tour of the house, you can admire Truman’s Presidential 1950 Cosmopolitan Lincoln Limousine at the “Little White House.”
Returning to Miami on Your Florida Keys Road Trip
Your return road trip to Miami provides the opportunity to visit those places you missed on the way down. On our return we chose to “visit” Little Palm Island Resort and Spa, often named one of the world’s best.
It wasn’t the actual island we visited (only guests are allowed), but the departure point for the Gatsby-era-style launch that transports guests to the adults-only resort. (Living up to its reputation for exclusivity and elegance, guests who’d rather not take the launch can fly in by seaplane). Also contributing to Little Palm’s exclusivity are its rates: $2,587 for a double to $7,000 for a suite. TVs and cell phones prohibited.